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Measuring and Installing a Mountain Bike Chain
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Measuring and Installing a Mountain Bike Chain.
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To co uważacie:
- MarzNet256 - This video covers some of the basics, but not nearly enough. In fact, it could cause you to have some serious drivetrain issues/damage. It's a long read, but I think it will be worth your time. Here's Why: 1. Chains don't stretch, they wear out. That is, the link plates on the sides do not get longer. What happens is the link bushings and rollers wear against each other and develop movement which causes the distance between link rollers to increase. If you ever grab the link rollers on an old chain, you will see and feel some play-you will not get this with a new chain. Also, what they refer to as a link in the video is half a link-this is a common mistake. One link has three pins. It is the most basic unit of the chain (a half link with outer plates connected to a half link with inner plates). This will become crystal clear to you if you break a chain in the wrong spot and then won't be able to join the ends or use a master link. 2. When removing a chain that you are going to reinstall (for example-to clean it in a tray of solvent) do not push the pin all the way out. This will allow you to put the chain back together more easily (Shimano chains require a special pin to put back together, but I have reused a plain pin without any problems). Save yourself the headache and use a good master link (get a couple) then you can also pop off the chain easily to clean/replace or do a trailside repair. Carry a chain tool, know how to use it and make sure it works (practice on some bits of leftover/old chain). 3. The grease that comes on a new chain attracts dirt like a magnet, soak the new chain in solvent (Klean Strip Odorless Mineral Spirits works great) then let it air dry completely (you can hang it from a nail, etc). Some people say this is the best lube your chain can have. I call bullshit on that one (sorry Sheldon). No matter how good it is, it won't function as intended when its all gritty. 4.There is no mention of taking rear suspension compression into account. On some rear suspensions there is chain growth when it is compressed. That is, as the rear compresses the distance between the centers of the crank and rear wheel increases. This must be taken into account or your chain might be too short-leading to drivetrain damage. You can call the manufacturer and ask them and/or let air out of rear shock or remove coil over spring and install shock without spring, fully compress rear suspension, then fit the chain as described below (My Specialized FSR bike does not have this problem of chain growth, it is fully independent/active). 5. It is better to feed the chain through the rear mech with it on the biggest ring and biggest cog, then pull it until the rear mech pulley cage it about 45deg relative to horizontal (the floor). There are so many combinations of gearing, rear mech's and suspension types that applying one hard and fast rule can get you into trouble. You can go a little more than 45deg, just make sure you can move the end of the pulley cage forward at least 1" and develop some slack in the chain-this will ensure proper function (Park Tool online has a good section on this. Also, The MBR magazine youtube video is much better). Enough of this ridiculous rant! Let's ride!
- S Word - Hi there, what is the music in the background. Thanks for the video.
- Allbbrz - Nice video but next time you go to the doctor and he is not looking, steal a pair of those rubber gloves.....
- Justus Andreas - A perfect video to act on, even for the absolute anti-do-it-yourself person like me. No nervous break down today, first time successfully changed a chain. Thank you very much!
- Jamie Haslett - I have to agree with a few people you have to run it thru the rear derailleur, as there are many diffetrent types and sizes. I followed your instructions and It screwed my brand new shimano chain as it came up short once it was run through the derailleur and snapped off under pressure when I was trying to tune it.
- IrsyaDanial Sumiano - Hi. I have a KMC chain but it uses the pin system. Can I change it to master link system?
- Tom Chamberlain - you determine the correct length based on putting the ends together without going through the derailleur....but that's a mistake because derailleurs vary in length. best off deliberately making the chain too long first, threading it through the derailleur, and then reducing the length ot the correct length afterwards surely?
- sploofmonkey - What's wrong with this picture at 4:16?
- Kevin Maddick - Thanks heaps for that....:)
- Bunjoy Ancajas - nice video... very helpful, but i have one question, how about if you have a double chainset would it still be measured with the largest chainring?
- robko6262 - Excellent and most helpful -- thanks!
- Alastair Dodwell - Thanks -great video. Helped me out with chain replacement.
- Jake Haoda - nice video
- El Maestro - I wish you demonstrated how to install a Shimano chain with the pin rivet!
- okarasnausėda - what if my bike is 30 speed
- hakan yıldırım - thanks
- Dla was polecam, zobaczcie sami: (nic nie ma do polecenia).